JR's 1937 Plymouth PT50 Pick Up

Colossians 3:23

Looking for Patch/Repair Panels for your Plymouth or Dodge Pickup?

You've found the right place. See my Patch Panels farther down this page.

Contact me for a package deal if you need multiple pieces!

Mention you saw the offer on my website.

Email jr@37plyguy.com

Tell Your Friends!

I have started a 1935-38 Dodge & 1937-38 Plymouth & Fargo Truck Group on Face Book!!

Hopefully a place to share pictures, helpful hints and ideas.

Please feel free to join & share. Click Here or copy & paste this link https://www.facebook.com/groups/37plyguy/

I buy 1935-1938 Plymouth, Dodge and Fargo Pickups!!

I buy 1935-1938 Plymouth and Dodge Pickups!! Whole trucks or pieces and parts! Not even afraid of basket cases!! Email if you are ready to sell.

Email me please jr@37plyguy.com

Watch this 1920’s Oil Field Dodge Promotional film talk about a Wild Ride!!

I have a couple new projects

Both 37's, a Dodge MC and a Plymouth PT50.

The Dodge will be for sale eventually. It's slated for new crossmember, brakes, steering and a 350, 350 turbo combo.

I have a Desoto Hemi, GMC Blower set up for the Plymouth. But I have to move the Dodge before work begins on it.

1937 Plymouth PSo if anyone is interested in a Dodge project give me a shout!37 Plymouth PT50

New Items Available!!!

1937 Plymouth PT50 Commercial Car Manual: I see 1937 Car Owners Manuals P3, P4 all the time... but have you ever seen the 1937 Plymouth PT50 Commercial Car Manual? I have a couple and was able to have a few copies made. So I have the copies for sale. Just like the original there are 56 pages and it measures 5 1/2 by 8 1/2" in size.

1937-38 Plymouth PT50-57 Dash Emblem: Only used in 37 and 38 Plymouth Pickups, I have a few in white nylon, they can be painted, as pictured below and a few that were printed using stainless steel powder.

Not running a rear bumper? Want smoother look? How about this roll Pan.

If you have a need for any of these items Email me please jr@37plyguy.com

1937-38 Dodge Dash Emblem

and... I have them in Nylon! (a form of plastic)

Frog Follies 2016

MOPAR Truck Country Sunday at the 2016 Frog Follies. We had four 1937 Plymouth PT50's, one 1938 Plymouth PT57 and one 1937 Dodge truck. We know there were more Dodge trucks on the grounnds but with over 4,000 vehicles constantly on the move it proved too hard to get them all together at one time... Maybe next year. When have you ever seen this many MOPAR trucks together at one show!

Frog Follies 2014

We tried to organize our own MOPAR Country Sunday at the 2014 Frog Follies with 1936-38 Dodge and 1937 Plymouth trucks but with over 4,000 vehicles constantly on the move it proved too hard to get them all together at one time... Maybe next year. Our few numbers (7 out of almost 5000 pre 1949 vehicles on the grounds) prove how rare these trucks are.

The orange truck is a 1936 Dodge. The other three are all 1937 Plymouth PT50's.

The beauty of Street Rodding!! Four basically same trucks and how different individual owners can make them uniquely their own.

The vi

The view most of our competition see.

This 36 Dodge is rockin the old school Hemi.

The 38 Dodge below sports a dressed up 440.

This 36 Dodge has fantastic two tone paint.

November, 2015 37 Plymouth PT50 for sale

Sold!! 11/30/2015

This

Purchased May 28, 2009

My newest project a 1937 Plymouth PT50 Pick Up

It's coming along... July 2014 17's and 20's

Plymouth only built trucks for a short period of time. The first year for Plymouth pickups was 1937 and the last was 1941. Commercial vehicles were built from 1935 through 1942 and again in the mid-seventies with the Trail Duster. Most of the trucks were pickups but there was also a Commercial Sedan delivery and a Westchester Suburban, which was a woody wagon on a truck chassis. The 1937 Plymouth PT-50 half-ton pickup was by far the most popular Plymouth truck. The power came from a Plymouth in-line 6 with 82 horsepower. The three speed floor-mounted transmission had silent helical gears. Standard equipment included safety glass all around, a spare tire nestled in the right fender, and a six foot bed. Options for the PT-50 included a rear bumper, bumper guards, left-hand spare-tire mount (providing dual side mounts), right-hand windshield wiper, and chrome windshield frame. The fenders were normally painted black, but could be ordered with fenders the same color as the body. Plymouth built 15,564 Commercial vehicles in 1937 at a cost of $525. They were made in Detroit, MI., Evansville, IN. and Los Angeles, CA.

Hot Rod and Hot Babe! May of 2009

I still have both - August of 2013

Items I'm looking for now!! And will trade pieces and parts for!

PT50 owners manual (notice it says commercial car and CODE PT50)

I'm always looking for 1936, 1937, 1938 Plymouth, Dodge & Fargo Pick Ups

Any condition—pieces/parts or whole vehicle, what have you?

anyone out there have a lead, ready to sell one you have?

Email me please jr@37plyguy.com

I'm looking for a windshield regulator and windshield frame, or parts from either!!

If you glued your windshield in you probably have these parts laying around. I would be interested in buying any extra parts or possibly work a trade for patch panels.

Email me please jr@37plyguy.com

If you need...

a Rear Cab Patch Panel

Lower Cowl Patch Panels

Lower Door Patch Panels

Door Bottom Patch Panels

Cab Corners

Oak front Cab Blocks

Gas fill delete plate

Front Hood Latches

Stainless Steel Hinge Pins

Splash Aprons

Roll Pan

Windshield Hinge/Wiper Covers

Interior Backing for Door Panels, Kick Panels Headliner and back of cab.

I made them for my project and by request, I have made more...

My patch panels will fit late model 1935, 36-38 Dodge pickups,

as well as 37-38 Plymouth pickups, and 36-38 Fargo pickups.

Here is the Straight Rear Reveal patch $145.00. No Hump, 48" long.

Here is the Rear Reveal patch with hump. Sorry no longer available $165.00.

Other rear reveal patch panels I've seen do not have the drive shaft hump like the original cab and sell for up to $235.

These are made like the original cab and fit perfectly. I have them for $145.00. They are 5" tall and 48" wide which will easily reach replacement cab corners. While my replacement panels are a standard size, there is no need to cut away good original metal. Save welding and body work time by trimming my panels to fit only the area you need to replace! Now if the back of your cab is as bad as mine was, you'll probably need cab corners too.

Here's what the back of my cab (and most of these trucks) look like...

Before After

A definite improvement. $145.00.

If you only need a short repair in the very middle back of Cab this one is 18.5" wide as shown below $45.

Email me if you need either one, 41 inch is $125.00 or 18.5 inch is only $35 + shipping sales@37plyguy.com

Here are the lower cowl patches $75.00 each.

Again there is no need to cut away good original metal. If these panels are bigger then the area you need to repair save welding & body work time by trimming them to fit only the area you need to replace!

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Here is new wood (solid oak) for cab front $75.00 pair.

FYI... When ordering, I've learned some cabs had two blocks per side originally. So be sure to measure. All the cabs I've removed only had one block per side. My replacements are 7/8" thick. If you need four blocks $125 buys a 4 piece set.

The four older pieces you see below (center and right) were removed from an original truck. They were still 7/8" thick, but stacked two on each side.

The Hood Latch Hold Downs. Mount on each side of grille shell. I have them in polished aluminum $85 or unfinished steel $65.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Here is the lower door patch panel $85.00 each.

This panel is made to replace the lower 3" of the door, the most common rust through area.

Once the old metal including the wrap around lip is removed the patch will slide into place.

With the patch in place the lip can now be hammered down and welded.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Here is the Bottom of door patch panel $135.00 each.

This panel is made to replace the bottom of the door, another common rust through area.

Here are the Cab Corner repair patches $125 each.

Remember, there is no need to cut away good original metal. If these 11 inch panels are bigger then the area you need to repair save welding & body work time by trimming them to fit only the area you need to replace!

Email sales@37plyguy.com

I also have stainless steel Hinge pins (set of 4) $50.

No worry's about knocking the paint of these $50.

\They will never rust so removal is easier then the old steel pins $50.

The pin diameter is .28" and 2.70" long

100% stainless, only the heads are polished $50.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Here is a gas fill delete patch $30.

If you've relocated your gas tank might as well smooth out the cab $30.

This will speed up the process $30.

One more pass with the welder and you're ready for body work $30.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

For the smaller repair job try these cheaper 6 inch cab corners! Save welding & body work time by trimming them to fit only the area you need to replace! $50 each.

I also have a 6 inch Rear Reveal patch for those small rust through areas! Only $25

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Here are the Splash Aprons $475 a pair.

The originals were made out of 22 gauge steel, that's pretty thin. The toe of a boot could easily dent them. We made these out of 20 gauge, just slightly heavier metal and they are an exact replacement for short bed half ton Dodge and Plymouth trucks. They are 65" long overall.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Available now $475.00 a pair.

The patch panels I'm offering here were all made for my 1937 Plymouth PT50 truck. So I know they will also fit 38 Plymouth trucks, late model 35, 36-38 Dodge trucks and 1936-1938 Fargo trucks.

The originals were so thin you hardly see one that doesn't have some rust through.

Here's a look at the front portion

the middle with cab mount tab

the back.

I haven't drilled mount holes, might be best to do at your application.

A view from the top.

This shows the fit at the rear fender.

Yes, my rear fenders are rough--I hadn't started working them at this point.

Anyway... this gives you a view of the running board fender fit.

I haven't drilled mount holes, might be best to do at your application.

Here's a couple shots of my splash Aprons after final fit and finish!

Frank and Debs 1937 Plymouth PT50.

Great job Frank, Deb your 37 looks fantastic.

1937 Plymouth PT50 from South Dakota

Windshield Hinge/Wiper Covers $75 pair. Or $40 either side. These are exact size as originals and made of 20 gauge steel. Mine are flat, no horizontal rib lines but originals are so hard to find, these are perfect for paint or your choice of upholstery.

For comparison, my wiper cover pictured above with an original passenger side cover. Driver side has hole for wiper switch.

After you cover all the metal inside your cab with sound and heat insulation here's a quick way to get ready for interior upholstery.

PVC Foam Board pre-trimmed ready to fit original doors and kick panels $125 pair. Once fit and fasteners are correct remove & cover with your fabric.

PVC Foam Board is the latest thing for auto upholstery backing. It is durable, water proof and 1/8" thick. Color is white but it can be painted if you wish. Closed cell foam adheres to it easily and stays secure. It's easy to trim if necessary and foam layers can be added for a 3 dimensional affect. The great thing is I have it trimmed and pre-drilled to fit original doors correctly! You can even use your original fasteners.

This is what it looks like after you remove what's left of the original card board from the door and kick panel.

This is what my new PVC Foam Board replacements look like in place $125 for both sides.

Here's a close up of the Kick panel in place. The original card board was held in place with Interior style screws with the big washers at the door side. At the floor the tabs in the toe boards held the panel in place. My PVC foam board fastens the same way. You can use the original screws or I have stainless steel or black interior screws or I have the Auveco style clips that will be hidden under the foam and fabric after you upholster.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

ABS Black Plastic pre-trimmed ready to fit original headliner, back of cab, cab corner sides, above doors and along side windshield at the A pillars. $435 for the whole set. Once fit and fasteners are correct remove & cover with your fabric.

ABS plastic is light, water proof, easy to shape and trim. It has been used by upholstery shops for years. The color is black. Closed cell foam and upholstery of your choice you supply adheres to it readily. The surface is flat black and could be used without upholstery if you wish. However it does scratch and mark fairly easy. The pieces are trimmed to mount using original hardware and push pins that held the original card board upholstery in place. I have them pre-drilled at original mount points but I can supply them without the holes if you wish. You can use your original fasteners or newer style Auevco fasteners.

All the black makes it hard to capture a good view inside the truck.

Each cab corner goes from floor to headliner.

And from rear of door to half way across top of rear window.

I have a seperate piece to cover back of cab below the rear window.

This piece runs from the floor to the bottom of the rear window.

This view shows the A pillar cover and the area above the door window front to back.

$435 for the headliner and back of cab kit (8 pieces in all). Kit includes 8 pieces of ABS plastic trimmed to fit original cabs. No fasteners, glue, closed cell foam or upholstery comes with this kit.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Here's a picture of all 8 pieces.

Email sales@37plyguy.com

Here's a cool way to display your ride with the door held open...

Need Door Prop Rods for your show vehicle? I made these for my 36 Plymouth Coupe. I can put any two digits you desire. $99 sold in pairs

Twisted stainless steel, looks like jewelry.

Holds door so interior can be viewed. Works when vehicle is parked on uneven surface or even against wind gust. Hopefully will keep little ones from hoping in, while their parents are distracted by the beauty of your display.

Feedback Profile

Received: May-5-10

Good Morning

The splash aprons arrived here this morning. They look great!! Checked them against the originals and found them an inch or two long which will be great for final fitting as I can trim them easily. Thank you so much for the chance to purchase these. As you progress through your project please keep me in mind for any body panels you may be making. Corrosion seems to have a way of eating the same places in the same body styles. I thought that I should send this e-mail as there is no other format for feedback on this transaction. Thank you again. Bill

Received: Apr-21-10 Dear j,
Hi Thanks for the heads up. Found your relisting and put it on my watch list. The cab patch panel I got from you is superb. You do really nice work.
XS

         Received: Jan-25-10 Dear j,
         Got the panel today and it looks great. Let me know if you get corners done to where you want to sell??
         Att

         Received: Mar-16-10 Dear j,
         I got the Aprons today.Looks great Thanks again.
         Brian

Dear j, thanks Looks great!!

Buyer: yenwa168 (710 ) Mar-16-10 11:13 1937 Dodge Pickup Splash Aprons 35 36 37 38 Plymouth

Dear j, Fast shipping nice panel Great price very satisfied Thanks

Buyer: colin26 (29 ) Mar-12-10 20:42 1937 Dodge Pickup Cab Patch Panel 35, 36, 38 Plymouth

Dear j, Just what I needed

Buyer: kam999 (238 ) Mar-04-10 17:22 1937 Dodge Pickup Cab Patch Panel 35, 36, 38 Plymouth

Dear j, cool item!!!great seller!!!thanks!!!

Buyer: motbumh8 (1493 )Mar-04-10 14:23 1937 Dodge Pickup Cab Patch Panel 35, 36, 38 Plymouth

Dear j, It is perfect. Got a wheel well bead? Thanks

Buyer: fisuald (406 )Feb-24-10 16:15 1937 Dodge Pickup Cab Patch Panel 35, 36, 38 Plymouth

Dear j, Great panel for my truck++++++++++++++++++++++++

Buyer: 35internat (102 )Jan-25-10 19:21 1937 Dodge Pickup Cab Patch Panel 35, 36, 38 Plymouth

Dear j, AAA

Buyer: xjsjag99 (8) Jan-08-10 04:56 1936 1937 1938 Plymouth, Dodge Pickup Cab Patch Panel

Dear j, just as described AAA+++

Buyer: 1kodiak (149 ) Dec-20-09 20:02 -- 1936 1937 1938 Plymouth, Dodge Pickup Cab Patch Panel

I will add pics of my progress as I have time.

I hope to end up with a cloned Pick Up version of my coupe.

Yes, I do love a challenge.

The next few shots are from the day we picked it up.

Yep... it's a rusty mess!

But fairly complete

I'll have to cut that top down (modified photo)

This will be more of the look I'll be going for. (modified photo)

Disassembly begins October 2009

Anyone need a boat anchor?

Wonder if this will be enough off the top...

201 CI & 75 horsepower--not plated since 1958, but it still turns over!

Don't have a dolly but this is one way to keep the cab mobile.

I measured the cab and it seemed perfectly square before removal...

You can see some of the bracing I added by X'ing both doors and across the cab interior in the next two pictures. Hopefully it will still be square after patch panels.

There is always hope! Started a little patch work between Christmas 2009 and New Year. this is the passenger side lower cowl.

As you can see, I had to replace some of the frame work.

Trial fit

and again.

Not bad--I'll do better on the driver side.

Not much to work with on the driver side. I hate rust.

This thing is worse than I remember when I brought it home last spring.

This is the inside of the Driver side lower cowl

I had to replace the outer frame of the front of lower cab.

My second patch panel.

Man that's an almost perfect fit.

Guess you can tell, I've never had a lesson in welding.

A little clean up will help.

Making sparks fly.

Not bad considering I'd never made a patch panel of any kind before...thanks to my buddy Joe for the confidence to do it all myself...

One thing I want to mention here, my cab was bad enough I had to replace the metal all the way around the bottom of my cab. And I have made my patch panels long enough to do that. When you start your project, if your rust issues are not as severe as mine, trim my panels to fit just the area you need to replace. There is never a reason to cut away good original metal! This will save cutting, welding, grinding and bodywork time as well.I'll t

Next I'll tackle the rear of the cab.

Not much left here either.

I just traced around the patch panel when deciding where to cut.

The metal was so bad here, I wanted to be sure I cut the weak out.

The brace around the back of the cab floor was pretty well gone too...

So I just made a new one out of straight stock and rolled it to fit.

It slid right in side the frame channel at the cab corners.

While getting the curve right I have it on the outside of the frame here.

Now it's inside an fits like a glove.

Ready to weld in place.

The old cab is starting to feel solid once again.

With the lower frame replaced, I can start fitting the lower cab patch panel.

Looks like my cut was right on.

Get this thing tacked in place and see what it looks like.

Time to try a cab corner...

While it's not done in the picture below--I did weld the bottom of the patch panel to the frame of the floor, to make sure it was pulled in correctly along the bottom, before starting to fit the cab corner.

The lower cab corner on the Plymouth pickup has a lot of curve to it--this piece was a lot tougher to make than it looks.

Above is a shot of the front of the driver side cab corner.

This is a shot of the back of my cab corner patch.

Starting to take shape.

Another look.

Here's what the passenger side looks like...

This is a shot of the back of my cab corner patch.

I think this will be workable... it sure did make the whole thing more solid!

A definite improvement.

which is better one or two...

I've wire brushed and sand blasted the frame till I'm tired of it. I've also welded up all the extra bolt/rivet holes that I won't be using. I bet there were 50 holes on each rail. Now I'm going to box the whole thing from front to back. I did remove one center cross member... It was never going to clear a transmission hump and I intend to "X" the frame with a driveshaft safety loop anyway.

Getting started on the frame...

Picture above I tacked newly cut pieces in place. Frame is upright.

After tacking top in place I turned it over and tacked bottom side of frame.

It's still upside down here but this front cross member had some rust through...

So I cut out the bottom and put in new metal...

Here's the back cross member... figured I could strengthen it up too, by welding seams.

And there it is completely boxed...

This thing should paint pretty nice...

I purchased my IFS from JW Rod Garage out of Belgium, WI.

I decided to go with the MII Hub to Hub Coil over Kit. Bob at JWRG has been very helpful.

Check out their web site here JW Rod Garage

maybe they'll give me a deal when I get ready to order more parts.

Time to get this thing in!

Oh and thanks to my friend Bobby G, for showing me how a Pro welds!

I have the cross member in and welding in the top hats

Check out those welds--Not bad for my little Lincoln 135 welder!

I welded this thing inside and out. Turned the frame over to get inside too!

Start putting this thing together.

The front end is in! Man, it's slammed--hopefully when I crank the coil over's up they will raise me at least a couple inches.

Time to move to the rear end.

I'm going to try to use the original springs and shackle mounts with the 8inch. I can't believe the 1/2tons came with 9 leafs. I've removed 3 of them, so down to a total of 6 leaves now and at that, when I stepped on the back cross member, along with two tires and rims and a 5 gallon bucket of sand for even more weight, the frame only goes down less than 1" at the back of the running boards. I may have to remove a couple more leaves.

Here's a mock up of the rear... notice the C clamps. Now for new spring pads welded in place to get 2-3 degrees up on the third member and a 2-3" lowering block and I'll be ready for paint!

About 10" too high in back.

I flipped the shackles over here, that lowered the frame about 4 inches.

Have to do some measuring now... I'm not sure the bed floor will clear the shackles....

I took out two more leaves, two longer leaves. Down to 4 now--with six leaves, the springs just didn't give at all. It's getting closer, and I can always add leaves as I add the weight of running gear and body.

I think with 6 original leafs it will be close to the stance/rake I want, pretty much guess work at this point until I can get body sheet metal, motor & transmission in place.

I bet a rotisserie would not be that hard to make,

I could sure use one now.

I've got 3 inch lowering blocks in place and it looks about like the stance I want... Now if I can just keep it here while I put it back together?

Started welding up holes in the firewall and holes from screws that held hood felt in place. I think there are about 40 holes in the firewall from the factory.

Set the cab back on the frame so I don't forget how it looks.

I have my winter project planned.

I've always wanted a blower motor, gonna see how this fits in the 37.

Best of Show October 2009 Burdette Park My 36 Coupe is my inspiration for the 37 Pickup build. I'm hoping to get the same stance on the 37.

I shot the underside of cab with a rubberized undercoat.

This close up shows where the original oak mounts go.

Here you can see one in place. The cab to frame bolts go right through the wood.

Another shot of the bottom of the passenger side lower cowl.

Both oak mounts in place.

Look at this door. Hinge is solid, window regulator is good, window frame nice, latch and door handle work good. Just the bottom 2 inches and the base plate of the door are shot.

You can see above I marked a cut line three inches up from the bottom all the way across. Here is the same door flipped over. I didn't think about pictures till I had already cut away the inside bottom and had the repair piece in place.

I made a pattern for the door bottom. That piece is 2"wide at the center, 1 3/4" at the front and 1 1/2 at the back of the door. That gives the bottom of the door the curve it needs to follow the cab line.

Here you can see the Swiss cheese metal removed. The new bottom piece is in.

This is the new piece I made laying in place. I bent the lip in the bottom and on the hinge side of the door.

Now you can see it clamped in place. You can also see it doesn't quite reach the outside edge of the door. I only have a 30" brake (this is just a hobby for me, my tools are limited) My patch was 31" long, but I had to trim it to fit in my brake. I'll weld that last inch in later.

This is another shot looking at the bottom of the door. This shows the curve of that bottom piece. And while I didn't get a picture of it I welded a 1/2" lip on that bottom piece all the way across. That lip fits into the outer door skin bottom, just like the original metal did.

Here I have started my stitch welds (again this is a hobby for me, I'm not a welder).

Clamps removed. This part is hard for me, guess I'm not very patient, but go too fast and too much heat will warp the metal. Just a few more passes then we can grind it smooth.

The door is hung, adjusted, opens, closes, locks and Clay is already playing with a soapstone.

We salvaged a door! That's always cool.

This is the transmission cross member Bobby made for me out of stainless steel.

Here you can see I have brake lines, master cylinder and booster.

Brake lines are 3/16" stainless steel.

Here you can see the cross member we made it's also stainless.

Brake pedal is in place.

I also converted the old drum brakes to disk.

We also made the front motor mounts from the same SS stock.

Here we are ready to ease the cab back into place to check fit.

Getting the cab back in place.

At this point you can see I have the rear end in place with no lowering blocks.

I ended up flipping the front original spring mounts over as well. That pretty well gave the the ride height I wanted. I now have 5 original spring leaves in place.

You can also see here I have brake lines, a drive shaft and I'm making mounting brackets for my 17 gallon fuel cell from RCI (Racer's Choice Inc).

Here I'm trial fitting the tank.

Another shot. At 17 gallon that's about the max.

We used all stainless steel tubing for brakes and fuel.

I think it's going to work.

First trip out of the garage.

Finally drove it to the alignment shop.

Running good! I can pass everything but a gas station.

Chopping the Top - March 2014

This is my project so far.

I love the lines of these trucks but I've always felt like the cabs were a little too tall.

So I'm going to change mine... a little.

I added temporary bracing and now I'm going to take a little off the top.

well actually.... out of the middle.

It's common and certainly less cutting and welding to go right through the middle of the rear window opening. But I've never cared for mail slot windows, I'm going to keep the rear window as is. These cabs have a big enough blind spot at the cab corners already. Taking a few inches of height out of the rear window will only make that worse. The tape marks here show how to keep the rear window in tact. Now it drops with the top.

Of course I'll need to take the same amount out of both A pillars and both door tops.

With a couple measurements complete, it's time to make sparks fly!!

At this point the top cut has been made all the way around to the driver side A pillar.

it's time for Lift off!!

http://37plyguy.com/PT50Pics/chop/chop200.jpg

And just like that!! I have another convertible.

T ...with a really short windshield frame.

Tools required: reciprocating saw, and an angle grinder. A few spare blades and cut off wheels might be handy. I was able to finish all cuts with one wheel and two blades. Those door jambs are tough. I found out it's easy to bend and ruin a blade there.

Now make the second cut on the cab to remove the extra height.

As soon as I made the second cut all the way around I couldn't stand it. I had to set the top back on just to see... and yeah, I like it. No I love it!

Of course as the top comes down it has to get wider. We lined up the back of the cab and this picture shows how much too short the top was where the A pillars meet.

We made a cut from side to side in the top as you can see below. The A pillars line up now. If it wasn't for that pesky gap in the middle of the top, I'd be almost done.

Pretty easy to cut the doors down, but they will have to be lengthened at the top as well.

Don't throw away any of the cut out metal! What I took out below the rear window will be used to fill the gap in the top. And metal removed from the door A pillar will be perfect for welding in the top of door. Same goes for the interior moldings. in

How's this fit look after removing a few inches from the middle. I'll be honest, it fit better than I expected.

It did take one pie cut in each cab corner. As the top of cab has a slight taper.

Precise measurement is EVERYTHING when it comes to putting it back together.

By the time I finish these welds with a little grinding inside and out, you wont be able to tell where it was cut and put back together... I hope. :)

I've still got a lot of finish welding to do but this is what I'm talk'n bout.

While I marked the windshield frame for the same cut I haven't touched it yet so it's not pictured here.

Of course, I'm keeping the original crank out feature and my cowl vent.

This gives my truck a little attitude.

I started in the middle of the cab.

I will probably have to make a pie cut on each end.

I made tacks about every 2 inches then cut those in half for every inch. My plan is to only tack everything together initially. Once I'm satisfied with fit, windshield and door alignment, I'll go back and fill in all welds. Cutting the 1 inch in half and so forth. I don't want to build up too much heat here.